A SEASON FOR ALL THINGS
I've been curious about when particular food crops are at their peak. I've always known that there's a tomato season, or a sweet corn season, and that Dungeness crabs are at their most delicious during winter. But I've never had a great grasp of when my favorite foods are prime for the chow down. Chalk it up to the year-round availability of foods that shouldn't be available all year around (Ever had a chalky tomato in February? Or a toilet-flavored oyster in June? Plenty of businesses are happy to sell either to you, so why should they stop?)
After poking around, I learned a few things about the seasonality of seafood. Now seems to be the best time for clams, mussels, squid, and octopus, which sets off plenty of risotto and paella alarms in my head.
Another site introduced me to the idea of "R months," meaning that better oysters meant for half-shell eating -- fines de claires -- are at peak during months that end in R. Which explains why so many of my recent oyster forays have been less than rapturous.
In California, Dungeness season runs by law from November 15 through June 30. The best Dungeness crabs I've had have been the ones I bought in Jan/Feb/March. Succulent and sweet, no condiments required. As with oysters, Dungeness crabs eaten off season simply don't compare. You become aware of their marine-ness, their sea-ness. The lack of subtlety robs them of their mouth-watering appeal.
Lobster? Isn't it always available? Sure, and you pay for that luxury. These guys do a great job of explaining everything from how lobsters live, to what they eat, and what the different forms of goop in them come from (it's not at all as gross as I thought it would be when I read titles like "Green Stuff," "Red Stuff," and "White Stuff"). Sounds like summer is your best season to get a break on price, and quite possibly when the critters will be their tastiest.
There doesn't seem to be a definitive tomato season, but the locus of good eating springs from tomatoes harvested in August and September (here in California; Florida is on a slightly different time frame). Dry months yield those dark, ultra-juicy specimens you can cut in half, sprinkle with salt, and then eat like apples. Few unadorned foods compare.
Which brings me to corn. According to this ancient web page, "Florida corn is available from October through June, peaking in April and June. California corn is available from May through October, peaking in June and July. Washington corn is available from July through October, peaking in August." Sweet corn has been available for about a month, and it's still not great: young short ears dying for another month or two to mature. Guess you could consider these premature previews of sweet corn teasers for the real thing a few weeks hence. These guys suggest that the early ears, with immature kernels, are best candidates for canning. Great history of corn here. Who knew?
Right now is your best last chance for great, crunchy asparagus spears. Otherwise, wait until March 2005.
Into Brussels sprouts? Me, too. Alas, we're in off season, so wait until August and then enjoy them throughout winter. How about sweet onions? You can't beat Vidalias or Sweet Imperials in Asian dishes that call for thinly sliced onions, particularly the hot dishes like Indonesia's Crispy Crunchy Beef. Sweet onions in recipes calling for carmelization, or in dishes with lots of hot peppers or spices, balance everything.
Aw, fuck, I'm hungry!
After poking around, I learned a few things about the seasonality of seafood. Now seems to be the best time for clams, mussels, squid, and octopus, which sets off plenty of risotto and paella alarms in my head.
Another site introduced me to the idea of "R months," meaning that better oysters meant for half-shell eating -- fines de claires -- are at peak during months that end in R. Which explains why so many of my recent oyster forays have been less than rapturous.
In California, Dungeness season runs by law from November 15 through June 30. The best Dungeness crabs I've had have been the ones I bought in Jan/Feb/March. Succulent and sweet, no condiments required. As with oysters, Dungeness crabs eaten off season simply don't compare. You become aware of their marine-ness, their sea-ness. The lack of subtlety robs them of their mouth-watering appeal.
Lobster? Isn't it always available? Sure, and you pay for that luxury. These guys do a great job of explaining everything from how lobsters live, to what they eat, and what the different forms of goop in them come from (it's not at all as gross as I thought it would be when I read titles like "Green Stuff," "Red Stuff," and "White Stuff"). Sounds like summer is your best season to get a break on price, and quite possibly when the critters will be their tastiest.
There doesn't seem to be a definitive tomato season, but the locus of good eating springs from tomatoes harvested in August and September (here in California; Florida is on a slightly different time frame). Dry months yield those dark, ultra-juicy specimens you can cut in half, sprinkle with salt, and then eat like apples. Few unadorned foods compare.
Which brings me to corn. According to this ancient web page, "Florida corn is available from October through June, peaking in April and June. California corn is available from May through October, peaking in June and July. Washington corn is available from July through October, peaking in August." Sweet corn has been available for about a month, and it's still not great: young short ears dying for another month or two to mature. Guess you could consider these premature previews of sweet corn teasers for the real thing a few weeks hence. These guys suggest that the early ears, with immature kernels, are best candidates for canning. Great history of corn here. Who knew?
Right now is your best last chance for great, crunchy asparagus spears. Otherwise, wait until March 2005.
Into Brussels sprouts? Me, too. Alas, we're in off season, so wait until August and then enjoy them throughout winter. How about sweet onions? You can't beat Vidalias or Sweet Imperials in Asian dishes that call for thinly sliced onions, particularly the hot dishes like Indonesia's Crispy Crunchy Beef. Sweet onions in recipes calling for carmelization, or in dishes with lots of hot peppers or spices, balance everything.
Aw, fuck, I'm hungry!
posted by Andrew @ 6:57 PM
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